Ingredients Glossary
Acer saccharum extract - A specific type of alpha-hydroxy acid, called glycolic acid, used in cosmetics for its keratolytic effect.
AHA Complex - purified water, billberry extract (Vacinium myrtillus), sugar cane extract (saccharum officinarum), sugar maple extract (Acer saccharum), orange extract (Citrus sinensis) and lemon extract (Citrus limonum). Alpha hydroxy acids represent an excellent way to treat dry skin. They work by speeding up cell turnover and the rate of renewal of the skin’s surface. This particular complex is mixed fruit extract derived from natural sources which contain a thoroughly tested complementary blend of AHA’s; glycolic (for its keratolyic effect), lactic (for its moisturizing and skin smoothing properties), and citric acids (to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis).
Allantoin - a main constituent of comfrey extract which provides for anti-inflammatory properties and promotes the healing of wounds, bruises, sores and insect bites. It is also a very effective skin softener.
Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice - Aloe vera is high in polysaccharides, which help coordinate a number of biological activities, including the synthesis of collagen and connective tissue. Physically, the polysaccharides also form chemical bonds with water, creating aloe’s characteristic shield over the skin that keeps moisture in and pollutants out. This makes aloe one effective topical defense against the damaging effects of our environment. Aloe is also a very safe ingredient, as evaluated by the Cosmetic Industry Review and recommended by dermatologists, scientists, and other experts.
Anthemis nobilis (roman chamomile) flower oil - Known for it’s calming and anti-bacterial properties. It fights against inflammation of the skin, including inflammation of sunburns and minor scrapes. It also contains minerals, which replenish skin and rejuvenates to reduce the aging effect.
Apricot kernel oil - See Prunus armeniaca
Arginine - produced by fermentation, using carbohydrates of natural/vegetable origin as the starting material. Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid in human nutrition. It is a constituent of the urea cycle and activates production of creatine. As an active ingredient in skin and hair care, it is used for its moisturizing and skin and hair smoothing properties. It can relieve irritation and due to its moisture holding properties, can be an active ingredient to relieve dry, rough skin. Arginine acts to help the activity of the cells in the wound healing process. When a 50% amino acid ointment was applied for treatment of keloid, a high healing effect was observed.
Arnica montana (arnica) flower extract: Good for damaged, reddened, and sluggish skin, arnica is astringent and stimulating, but also has anti-inflammatory and healing properties. Treats both rosacea and acne skins. Note: Some people are sensitive to this plant and repeated applications can irritate skin.
Artemisia Ludoviciana (owyhee) leaf oil - Used as a anti-inflammatory and anti fungal on skin. Has a pleasant peach-like aroma.
Ascophyllum nodosum extract - This seaweed extract is rich in polyphenols and fucoidan, a combination which helps inhibit the adhesion of endothelins. UV exposure activates keratinocytes, which, in response, produce Alpha-MSH and endothelins. Endothelins are excreted, binding to the receptors at the surface of the melanocytes. In response, the melanocytes proliferate and produce more melanin. Inhibition of the adhesion of endothelins results in the reduction of melanin production, and also decreases the number of melanocytes overall. Of the test subjects who applied the ingredient twice daily at a concentration of 5%, 90% found that their skin was whiter, and 70% found that their skin was clearer and more luminous. In vitro tests show that this extract also increases cellular renewal and the production of positive enzymes in the stratum corneum.
Ascorbic acid - one of the most protective substances, which are involved in capturing or neutralizing free radicals, formed upon exposure to U.V. radiation. Vitamin C is widely used in dietary supplements but its dermatological and cosmetic use has been inhibited due to its lack of stability in the vehicles employed in products. This important use is finally obtainable through this form of vitamin C, the stable form of ascorbic acid.
Ascorbic acid polypeptide - plays an important role in many metabolic processes. It has been used for the immune system and for wound healing properties. It acts as a protective substance for capturing or neutralizing free radicals formed upon exposure to U.V. radiation. It has pronounced toning and firming effects on the skin, making it suitable for use in the vicinity of the eyes for reduction of puffiness, as well as treatment for aging skin. Due to its melanin-reducing properties, it can improve the appearance of freckled complexions, age spots and discolored skin. It serves as an excellent moisturizing and counter-irritant agent, penetrating deeply into the epidermis. For this reason, it serves as a protectant against climatic damage, overexposure to sun and wind as well as airborne pollutants and irritants.
Ascrobyl palmitate- (vitamin C) is an active free-radical scavenger, which is also capable of reducing melanin to a colorless substance, combating excessive pigmentation.
Astaxanthin- A cartenoid found in several types of plants, animals, and yeast. Carotenoids act as an important antioxidant against damaging effects of free radicals and singlet oxygen that occur during normal cellular function. Astaxanthin is the most functional of the carotenoids. Compared to beta carotene, it has two additional oxygenated groups on each ring structure giving it stronger antioxidant capability. It is 550 times more effective against free radical damage and singlet oxygen than vitamin E.
Avena Sativa (oat) kernel extract:Oat is loaded with compounds good for the body, inside or outside, such as soothing agent beta glucan (5%), lipids (3-11%) including barrier repairing omega-3 and 6 fatty acids or phenolic antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (avenanthramides). Great for skin that is dry, itchy or prone to skin-rashes or eczema.
Babassuamide MEA: a protein derived from Brazilian babassu palm fruit. It moisturizes and softens the hair and is a great natural alternative to acetamide MEA. It reduces tangling, improves the ease of wet and dry combing and leaves hair lustrous, soft and manageable. The ingredient is certified by Eco cert, the leading international organic certification agency for its purity.
Babassumaidopropyl betaine: Eco Certified for its clean production and quality. Derived from organic babassu palm fruit picked from a local eco-cooperative in Brazil. Provides outstanding conditioning and foaming properties and is a terrific alternative to cocoamidopropyl betaine which can cause irritation in many people.
Bamboo powder: The species of bamboo is native to the hill forests of India and grows up to 35 meters. The plant holds silica in the cell walls of the stem and when ground to a powder, the silica acts as a powerful exfoliating agent.
Bearberry leaf extract – See Arctostaphylos Uva ursi
Beta Glucan: Beta-glucan is a humectant moisturizer that attracts water to the top layers of skin. A polysaccharide (complex sugar) that can be derived from various natural sources such as yeast, fungi, seaweed. Beta-glucans are antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory, so they can help to calm sensitive, irritated skin.
Benzyl PCA and Phenoxyethanol: A liquid preservative consisting of phenoxyethanol, an aromatic ether alcohol and benzyl PCA (benzyl alcohol joined with sodium PCA) which serves as an emollient base. Benzyl PCA contains substantial moisturizing properties. The combination of these ingredients provides optimized protection against microbial growth from bacteria and yeast while giving the finished product exceptional feel. An effective preservative that is free of parabens, and formaldehyde, which can be used in a variety of cosmetic preparations.
Betula alba (white birch) sap extract - Birch sap is a source of minerals, oligo-elements and sugars beneficial to the skin. Known for its numerous curative virtues since the ninth century, it is believed to improve the elasticity and firmness of the skin. Moisture retention is also enhanced. It provides a sense of wellbeing, brings relief from irritation, and decreases the stress-related tension in the skin.
Billberry extract- a native to Europe and northern Asia its main uses are as an astringent, an antiseptic and a tonic. It is also used to stimulate circulation as a combatant against poor circulation.
Bisabolol: Bisabolol is naturally present in German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla or Matricaria Acts as an anti-irritant, protecting the skin from everyday damage. Stimulates and promotes the skin's healing process,Improves the appearance of damaged skin by moisturizing and helping to restore suppleness, prevents signs of aging with antioxidant benefits, reduces incidence of UV-induced erythema (sunburn)
Borage oil - (Borago officinalis) a cold pressed oil from the seed of the plant which grows abundantly in the Mediterranean region, Central Europe and Asia. This oil is said to be one of the best source of gamma linoleic acid (GLA), containing up to 23% of this fatty acid vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin, an important function in the body, especially the skin. GLA is noted for its effects on the skin and its ability to reduce dryness and keep skin healthy, supple, and young looking by regulating the hydration of the skin. During the last 20 years, researchers have discovered that eczema may be linked to a deficiency of GLA. Trials with GLA supplementation have demonstrated a strongly positive effect. In 1997, researchers at the University of Italy conducted a 12-week study in which patients receiving Borage Oil experienced significant reduction in all their symptoms. By the end of the study itching decreased approximately 90%. Many case studies indicate that supplementation with Borage Oil may also improve symptoms of psoriasis. Used to enhance and fortify cell growth, it is considered to be regenerative and beneficial to all skin types.
Borage powder- (Borago officinalis) a white to light cream powder. 60% Borage oil dried on maltodextrin (non-corn) and other vegetable diglycerides and tocopherols as a natural preservative.
Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter: Also known in West Africa and Europe as karite, this pure high quality butter is organically grown and is indigenous to the savannah lands south of the Sahel, extending from Senegal to eastern Uganda. Ours is a pure, unrefined product processed manually and without the use of chemicals or bleaching agents. Because of the unique qualities of this variety, as well as the use of chemical-free processing methods, it is naturally high in shea olein and therapeutic unsaponifiables, absorbing more readily into the skin. Shea butter is a remarkable, all-purpose moisturizer and skin protector, particularly useful for smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. It leaves the skin feeling soft and well-moisturized yet not greasy. The producers of this shea butter are women farmers belonging to farming groups and cooperatives of northern Uganda and Southern Sudan. Our support of these producers increases the value of the living shea tree, engendering conservation of indigenous African woodland for future generations.
Calcium Silicate: Helps absorb excess oil from skin.
Calendula officinalis (calendula) flower extract: is native to the Mediterranean region where it has been used extensively for its medicinal properties, specifically as an anti-inflammatory, wound healing agent, and antiseptic. Calendula stimulates collagen metabolism and boosts the immune system.
Calophyllum inophyllum (foraha) oil: A cold pressed vegetable oil that is extracted from the fruit and seeds of a large tree that is indigenous to Madagascar and grows in high plateaus. The oil has been used for centuries in Madagascar for treating wounds, facial neuralgia, skin ailments, and hair loss. It is used in France for acute skin irritations including burns, rashes, impetigo, insect bites, and abrasions. It is used topically to aid in eliminating waste material and toxins from the capillaries, help support cellular immunity, strengthen connective tissues, stimulate hair growth. It is excellent for use in cleansers, moisturizers, treatment serums, hair care treatment products and antiseptic preparations.
Cananga odorata (ylang ylang) flower oil: The fragrant star shaped flowers are picked from certified organic land in Madagascar in the early morning hours when the essential oil content is at its highest. The experienced farmers only pick mature flowers which contains the highest quality. Once collected the flowers are steam distilled in a copper still. Fifty pounds of ylang ylang flowers are required to yield one pound of oil. The oil is obtained through fractional distillation of which four batches are collected during the course of a fifteen hour steam distillation. The first batch is the highest or “Extra” fraction oil and is used mostly in perfumery due to its heavy floral notes. The last batch or the “Complete” is the most vegetative and less sweet.
Caprylyl/capryl wheat bran/straw glycosides - As surfactants (cleaners), caprylyl/capryl wheat bran/straw glycosides are effective at creating lather and are also used to mix oils and other ingredients which typically are not capable of mixing into water. These are produced from renewable plant-derived raw materials.
Capryloyl glycine - A lipo amino acid whose structure resembles that of natural lipo amino acids found in living organisms. It is obtained by grafting glycine onto an octanoic fatty chain. Glycine is the most common amino acid found in plants. Its role in the skin is particularly important because it is one of the major constituents of dermal structure proteins in the skin. The octanoic chain is found primarily in coconut or palm oil. Its presence is critical in the process of skin cell metabolism. Thanks to its acidic structure it helps keep skin in good healthy condition by protecting the skin from various aggressions. It also protects against gram negative and gram positive bacteria, yeasts, fungi, and some mycobacterium. It reduces the quantity of preservative that is needed in many preparations.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride: An emoillent derived from fractioned coconut oil. It imparts softens and moisture to the skin.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Cymbidium Grandiflorum (orchid) Flower Extract: Orchids are well known for their moisturizing properties, fighting free-radicals, increasing skin immunity and reducing the appearance of fine lines. The pink orchid, in particular, is ideal for all skin types and is rich in minerals which exist naturally in the skin, such as zinc, calcium, magnesium, iron and copper. Ideal emollient for products such as creams, lotions, body butters and bath products that are intended to convey a natural and mild appeal
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside: Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is a liquid non-ionic surfactant made from vegetable derived fatty acids and glucose. Produced from renewable vegetable sources. Used to blend ingredients together. And is a gentle cleansing agent
Capryloyl glycine, sarcosine, Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extract: A lipo-amino-acid ingredient that helps to regulate the 5 main causes of skin imperfections (5-alpha-reductase, bacterial proliferation, lipases, free radicals, elastase). The 5 alpha reductase is an enzyme present in the sebaceous glands and is responsible for sebum production. Changing hormone levels will cause this enzyme to grow more sensitive to testosterone, its substrate, therefore synthesizing an abnormal rate of sebum. High production of sebum causes oily or shiny skin. As the skin becomes more oily, the pores become blocked and cause a multiplication of cutaneous bacteria. As the bacteria proliferate, it creates large quantities of lipases enzymes. These enzymes induce the formation of free fatty acids on the skin’s surface and in the presence of free radicals, increase aggravation and inflammation to the skin. Elastases caused by inflammation destroy the cutaneous barrier gradually by attacking the collagen and elastin in the tissue.
The complex acts specifically by fighting the five main causes of oily, acne prone skin by:
- Regulating the sebum rate.
- Restoring the cutaneous ecosystem.
- Inhibiting the formation of peroxidisable free fatty acids.
- Fighting inflammation.
- Protecting the skin.
This versatile active ingredient acts simultaneously against all the causes of imbalance. It limits the activity of the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase, which regulates sebum production. Capryloyl glycine restores the cutaneous barrier and inhibits bacteria proliferation. Cinnamon bark has high catechinic tannin content and acts as an astringent, a tonic, and a stimulant for cutaneous cells. The cinnamic aldehyde content also inhibits bacterial flora. The skin becomes clearer, less oily, and free of imperfections.
Carrageenan- see Chondrus crispus
Centipeda cunnighamii extract: An herb that is a member of the daisy family which is indigenous to the outback of Australia. It is cultivated organically along the Murray River in Victoria, Australia and is processed without the use of alcohol or solvents. For centuries, the Aborigines have used this herb medicinally to treat various skin conditions. The extract contains potent anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties as well as soothing anti irritant benefits. A series of clinical tests conducted at the Wellington School of Medicine demonstrated that the anti-inflammatory action was up to thirty times more effective than standard aspirin. The extract also produced 50% more stimulatory growth in skin cell fibroblasts, which is the foundation of cell renewal. As early as 1886, this extract has been recognized in Australia for its medicinal uses.
Cetearyl Alcohol: This an emollient and helps to stabilize oil in water mixes. It is a fatty alcohol not a drying alcohol like denatured alcohol.
Cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl-glucoside: A glucolipid, or natural fatty wax obtained by the reaction of glucose from corn and fat extracted from coconut oil. This reaction takes place without the use of petrochemical solvents, or chemical reagents, thereby creating an emulsifier free of all chemical impurities and solvents that is ecologically kind.
Cetearyl alcohol, cocoglucoside- A glucolipid emulsifier composed entirely from raw vegetable materials used to create stability in a variety of products. Glucose, obtained from GMO free natural sources (like manioc) and fatty alcohols, extracted from vegetable oils (such as palm and coconut oil) are combined to create a glucosidic linkage which gives the molecule perfect stability and excellent resistance to hydrolysis. When used as an active ingredient, it provides good resistance to cold temperatures. Its supple texture creates smoothness, and applies easily to the skin.
Cetearyl glucose- a glucolipid of vegetable origin, the glucose is extracted from corn and the fat is extracted from coconut oil. It has a wide ranging emulsification capacities as well as the ability to promote skin moisturization by limiting transepidermal water loss.
Cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate: A natural emulsifier derived from Olive Oil. Unlike other vegetable oils, the chemical structure of olive oil is the most similar to human sebum. This olive based emollient richly hydrates and penetrates the skin, allowing it retain moisture without clogging pores. It is a wonderful natural alternative to petro chemically based emulsifiers such as propylene glycol and other synthetic ingredients.
Cetyl babassuate: The fatty acids derived from babassu oil. Babassu oil is the precious oil obtained from Babassu palm fruit native to Brazil. The ingredient has tremendous emolliency and moisturizing properties and is certified for its purity.
Cetyl Esters Wax: An ester wax derived from plant derived fatty acids and alcohol. The ingredient is a vegetable alternative of traditional cetyl ester wax once found in the head and blubber of sperm whales. The wax adds body, luster and a velvet feel in personal care products and has been certified by Ecocert for its purity and processing methods.
Cetyl palmitate: Is an ester of cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid, this thickener and emollient helps smooth and condition dry skin. It has an emollient function, as it is able to form a lipid film over the skin which reduces water loss from the stratum corneum.
Chitosan, from the white mushrooms Agaricus bisporus, France Campignon, is a natural polysaccharide which acts like a silicone delivering a silky touch with the added benefit of protecting hair from pollution.
Chondrus crispus extract: A naturally occurring family of carbohydrates extracted from Chondrus crispus (red seaweed or red algae), which lives on the rocks of the mediolittoral marine shores found on the coasts of the North Sea, English Channel, and the Atlantic coast from Norway to Gibraltar and of North America. It has a wide range of functional benefits in products including excellent moisture-binding capabilities as well as contributing to tactile properties, structure, and stability. It has pronounced emollient properties and its iodine and sulfur amino acid content provide anti-inflammatory and disinfectant effects. Over time, seaweed has been used by mariners and various cultures, such as the Polynesians and the Chinese, to heal burns, wounds, rashes, bruises, and swelling. Seaweed nourishes and remineralizes the skin, as well as reduces moisture loss by forming a protective gel. This seaweed is harvested in cold water. Once harvested and dried, it is extracted, filtrated, and the concentration is dried and ground.
Cinnamomum zeylancium bark extract: Used for antioxidant and astringent properties.
The terpene in the extract are believed to improve microcirculation of the skin, fight free radicals and enhances the skin tone
Crithmum maritimum extract: Commonly called Sea Fennel or more often, Rock Samphire, crithmum maritimum is found on the rocky North Atlantic coastal fronts that do not submerge even at high tide. The common name, Samphire, is a variation of the name for St. Peter, patron saint of fishermen. This tells of its protective, salvific, and restorative properties. In skin care, samphire has a soothing effect, diminishing the secretion of pro-inflammatory molecules responsible for redness, irritations, and edema. It is ironic that such a robust plant imparts such deep relaxation in the body. We use two forms, a wax that has proven anti-aging properties similar to retinoids but without the side effects of irritation, and aromatic waters, which induce the skin’s beta endorphins and have an anti-pain effect.
Citric Acid- when topically applied citric acid stimulates collagen synthesis. Citric acid - Natural surfactants have an alkaline pH so they can be shipped preservative free. Citric acid is blended into the final product to bring down this high pH, which could be harsh on the skin.
Citrus aurantuim amara (neroli) flower oil - in addition to its irresistible orange blossom scent, it has regenerative, antiseptic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities. This makes it useful to treat pimples and acne and reduce the redness associated with breakouts. Neroli can also be used to treat fine lines.
Citrus limonum extract- see Lemon extract
Citrus sinensis extract- see Orange extract
Coco-glucoside and coconut alcohol: A glucolipid, or natural fatty wax obtained by the reaction of glucose fat extracted from non GMO sourced coconut oil. This reaction takes place without the use of petrochemical solvents, or chemical reagents, thereby creating an emulsifier free of all chemical impurities and solvents that is ecologically kind and certified natural by Ecocert. Processed without petrochemicals, it has a crystalline structure that breaks up the water used in rinsing and spreads it on the skin so it feels more moisturized. (TK from Marianne)
Coco-glucoside - Our coco-glucoside is an Ecocert certified emulsifying wax made from coconut oil. It is entirely water processed, so it retains no residues of solvents or petrochemicals.
Comfrey (see Symphytum officinale)
Coneflower Extract- commonly known as Echinacea and native to central and south western United States. It is very effective when used as a remedy for boils and acne. It is also an effective skin tonic because of its ability to dilate the peripheral blood vessels.
Copper acetylmethionate- this metal, a chemical catalyst, is present in organisms as traces (trace-element). It intervenes as a catalyst in enzymatic reactions at the cellular level and is necessary for biological balance to ensure normal metabolic exchanges. It catalyzes the formation of disulphide bridges, which play a part in keratinization. It also catalyzes the formation of collagen, elastin and nucleic acids as well as the formation of melanin. Therefore, it intervenes in hair and skin pigmentation.
Copper gluconate – See magnesium aspartate
Copper PCA: Copper PCA helps the skin get rid of dead skin cells by loosening them from the epithelial site, helps clearing skin and refreshing look of skin can be brought back. Copper usually has antimicrobial action with the same mechanism as for skin.
Crithmum maritimum extract: Commonly called Sea Fennel or more often, Rock Samphire, crithmum maritimum is found on the rocky North Atlantic coastal fronts that do not submerge even at high tide. The common name, Samphire, is a variation of the name for St. Peter, patron saint of fishermen. This tells of its protective, salvific, and restorative properties. In skin care, samphire has a soothing effect, diminishing the secretion of pro-inflammatory molecules responsible for redness, irritations, and edema. It is ironic that such a robust plant imparts such deep relaxation in the body. We use two forms, a wax that has proven anti-aging properties similar to retinoids but without the side effects of irritation, and aromatic waters, which induce the skin’s beta endorphins and have an anti-pain effect. Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) extract: Cucumber extract hydrates and soothes the skin. Its refreshing properties can reduce puffiness and relieve itching, as well as help to ease redness – for example sunburn. It contains amino acids and organic acids that’s helpful for the skin’s acid mantle. There is also an enzyme (called shikimate dehydrigenase) in the pulp that’s shown to have anti-inflammatory properties. extract is suitable for all skin types.
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) extract: Cucumber extract hydrates and soothes the skin. Its refreshing properties can reduce puffiness and relieve itching, as well as help to ease redness – for example sunburn. It contains amino acids and organic acids that’s helpful for the skin’s acid mantle. There is also an enzyme (called shikimate dehydrigenase) in the pulp that’s shown to have anti-inflammatory properties. extract is suitable for all skin types.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)- Constituents: taraxerin, taraxerol, taraxsterol, 3:4 dioxycinnamic acid, flavoxanthin, inulin, citric acid, phenyloxyacetic acid, riboflavin, sitosterol, sitosterin, stigmasterol, coumesterol, vitamins B, C and pro-vitamin A. Benefits: it is one of the most useful of European herbs and an extremely medicinal plant. It is a diuretic, and used to make an excellent bitter tonic, used in dyspepsia, constipation, as a cholagogue, choleretic in liver disease (especially in primary stages of cirrhosis) and is considered of benefit as an anti-rheumatic.
Date Fruit Extract (Phoenix dactylifera), Pomegranate (Punica granatum) Fruit Extract, Strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis) Fruit Extract: The three ingredients in this complex are hydrophilic antioxidants purified from botanical sources and chosen to deliver broad-spectrum antioxidant protection. Date fruit has valuable tannins that protect against protein oxidation and scavenge superoxide, a skin-damaging free radical. Pomegranate fruit protects against lipid oxidation protecting the skin’s own natural oil. Strawberry fruit contains anthocyanins which protect against singlet oxygen and are anti-inflammatory. Therefore, the complex may be a choice for use to give protection from UV damage and minimize damage caused by sunburn reaction or sun exposure.
Daucus carota sativa (carrot) seed oil – This oil contains quantities of carotene, which provide vitamin A to the skin. It is a wonderful tonic for the skin and can help deter and reduce wrinkles.
Decyl glucoside - a naturally derived surfactant, prepared by reacting corn starch glucose with natural fatty alcohol. Due to its natural chemistry, decyl glucoside is very mild, low in toxicity, and readily biodegradable. Authorized by Ecocert because of its clean production methods and awarded the Bra Miljöval (Good Environmental Society for Nature Conservation) International Seal by the Swedish Government. It provides high foaming power in a product and is a mild, but effective cleanser that helps to maintain the skins natural biological balance. In shampoos, it enhances the deposition of cationic polymers, which can improve the conditioning effect. It contains no solvents and is compatible with all other classes of surfactants.
Dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol: The liquid preservative is a unique blend featuring dehydroacetic acid as the primary active ingredient. This product has been designed to replace parabens and paraben-containing blends in personal care and cosmetic formulations, offering higher efficacy. It has regulatory approval for virtually every personal care and cosmetic application. Tests comparing the complex versus parabens and paraben blends show higher efficacy across the board and substantially better performance in formulations with a lower pH. The preservative is certified by Eco Cert, one of the leading international organic and natural certification agencies which guarantees the respect of the environment during the production process, and also enhances renewable natural substances.
Diglycerin: Diglycerin is the dimer of glycerin, which means two glycerin molecules are bonded together. It is used as a humectant, skin-conditioning agent
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline- a botanical derived active substance, which rejuvenates the skin and combats the effects of aging. It stimulates the contraction of collagen fibers, protects elastic fibers against enzyme breakdown and assists in scavenging free radicals. It has properties, which moisturize and promote anti-wrinkle activity in the skin.
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate - is extracted from licorice root using a clean process certified by Ecocert. It is anti-inflammatory and reduces sun-induced redness according to in vitro tests. It also protects hyaluronic acid levels in the skin, functioning as an inhibitor of hyaluronidase.
Enzyme Protein: A unique blend of all-natural, non-GMO enzymes that catalyze and control the biochemical reactions that take place within living cells. This particular combination of enzymes softens skin and smoothes fine wrinkles by increasing solubility of and removal of skin surface comrneocytes. When used in combination with conditioning agents it increases exfoliation rates and renders lines and blemishes less visible.
(passion fruit) oil imparts additional benefits in terms of enhancement of cell membrane structure and function, and maintaining moisturizing ability.
Foraha (see Calophyllum inophyllum)
Galactoarabinan: A natural polysaccharide or sugar, extracted from the already harvested North American larch tree provides outstanding moisture and superior gloss in hair care systems.
Garcinia indica (kokum) Butter: Obtained from the fruit of the Indian tree Garcinica indica. The fruit kernels are picked and expeller pressed to produce a rich butter. Kokum butter is among the hardest and most stable butters due to its richness in fully saturated fatty acids. The butter prevents drying of the skin and development of wrinkles, restoring the suppleness of the skin. Our specific type of kokum butter has been approved for use in natural products certified by Ecocert.
Gluconolactone: It’s a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), that is often referred to as next generation AHA. It gently lifts off dead skin cells from the skin surface making skin smooth and even. In the long term it provides anti-aging benefits, like increased skin thickness and decreased wrinkles (though a tad less than even more proven superstar AHAs). It’s a great moisturizer and even helps to repair impaired skin barrier. It’s antioxidant, and does not make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and can be used even on sensitive, rosacea prone skin. It can be used even on skin very sensitive, rosacea prone or if you are post cosmetic procedure.
Gluconolactone and sodium benzoate: A new preservative that provides superior protection against bacteria, yeast and mold. Gluconolcatone, derived from corn, and sodium benzoate, a food grade preservative used for many decades, are combined to form this preservative complex. In addition to great preservative function, it also contains tremendous moisturizing capabilities. It is a great accompaniment to many personal care formulations.
Glucose Oxidase- non-irritant active ingredient with anti-microbial activities. It promotes normalization of skin sebum production. Excellent for acneic skin conditions and significantly decreases blackheads.
Glycerin- a sweet syrupy hygroscopic trihydroxy alcohol obtained by the saponification of fats, in this case, vegetable source lipids. It is used as a humectant and as a medium for extraction of herb.
Glycerin & Water & Glycoproteins: an herbal active complex of vegetable origin containing a vegetable glycoprotein purified from Solanum tuberosum L., which possesses characteristics similar to those found in lectins. Lectins are known for their high stability and their ability to agglutinate the cells with which they react, hence building bridges between cell surfaces. The complex has a strong stimulation on cells, their metabolism and proliferation. It also stimulates fibroblasts, keratinocytes and the aged-cells in particular, thus leading to an improvement in the appearance of wrinkles.
Glycerin and Moringa pterygosperma (moringa) seed extract: Moringa extract is from the moringa tree native to India and colloquially known as “the miracle tree.” The crushed seeds have a purifying and cleansing effect. When used in skincare, the extract protects the skin against pollutants (especially heavy metals) and environmental stress.
Glyceryl caprylate: A 100% plant derived, natural (Ecocert approved) multi-functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing properties, can work as a co-emulsifier (meaning that next to other emulsifiers it can help water and oil to mix) and has a strong antimicrobial activity so the amount of preservatives used can be reduced.
Glyceryl laurate - A form of glycerin distilled in a completely clean process, resulting in an ingredient that holds moisture in the product and helps deliver actives. It has anti-bacterial properties that make it especially useful in cleansers: it ensures a good clean but its softening effects keep the product gentle and at a healthy pH that doesn’t strip.
Glyceryl oleate: This ingredient prevents the erosion of the lipids that protect the skin. This in turn prevents dehydration and resulting inflammation. It mitigates any ill effects of the surfactants in the product.
Glyceryl Polyacrylate- a glycol-free glycerin clathrate which is an expanded molecule of kosher vegetable glycerine that is extremely hydrophilic, thereby allowing it to hold a high level of water. This humectant is a natural alternative to petro chemicals such as carbomer.
Glyceryl Undecylenate and Glyceryl Caprylate: Glyceryl Undecylenate is an ester of Glycerine and Undercylenic acid, which is derived from vegetable sources. It is used as an emulsifier. Glyceryl Caprylate is a co-emulsifier and humectant. It helps keep skin moisturized.
Gotu Kola (Centella Asiatica)- from Madagascar, contains triterpenic saponines: asiaticoside and asiatic acid, and tannins, sugars and mineral salts. It is said to contribute to a better trophicity of the conjunctive tissue. It is healing and anti-inflammatory. Anti-oxidant liposomes help repair free-radical damage.
Grape Seed Extract- assisting preservative. It helps repair existing damage from free radicals and restore the body’s own defense mechanism and skin repair enzymes.
Green Tea Extract- Green tea comes from the leaves of the white-flowered tea plant, Camellia sinensis, which is native to Asia. These tea leaves are less processed than black tea and contain rich sources of antioxidants, which protect the body's cells from damage and fight diseases. Catechin, a polyphenol is the main component in green tea and is present in higher amounts than in grape juice and red wine. Polyphenols, aside from their antiseptic and antioxidant properties, are able to form complexes with other molecules, thereby detoxifying the skin when used in cosmetic formulations.
Halidrys siliquosa extract - Derived from a perennial brown algae native to the European Atlantic, this extract works against hyperpigmentation at multiple stages before, during, and after melanin synthesis. First, it functions as an antioxidant, eliminating free radicals caused by UV exposure, which influences melanin production. It also reduces the release of a key mediator of melanogenesis: nitric oxide. Next it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase as well as actual melanin synthesis. Lastly, it restricts melanin cells from forming dendrites, thereby regulating the movement of melanin into the skin cells. In addition to its antioxidant capabilities, it is also known to prevent inflammation, unlike other skin brightening actives that can actually cause irritation. It also shows the capability to reduce the decline of elastin and collagen. Clinical data showed that Halidrys siliquosa extract reduces the release of nitric oxide by 72% and inhibits more than 93% of enzyme activity at 1% concentration. At this same concentration, it inhibits the action of collagenase by 87% and elastase by 83%.
Helianthus Annuus (sunflower oil) Cold pressed Sunflower oil has antioxidants like vitamin E, that help with premature aging and wrinkles, keeping your skin looking young and fresh. Sunflower oil also contains linoleic acid, which helps your skin retain moisture so it becomes less dry. This beautiful oil is also non-comedogenic, so it won’t block pores.
Helichrysum italicum flower oil: Also called Immortelle Flower Oil,it soothes inflammation, while also reducing pain with its built-in analgesic properties. It is a multifaceted aid in acute trauma conditions as well as a daily tonic to keep skin healthy.
Hexapeptide-11 - Of the peptides and proteins created through yeast fermentation, hexapeptide 11 shows the most significant impact on collagen and elastin. It improves skin firmness, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and promotes maintenance of the skin’s lipid layer. Interestingly, the amino acid sequence for this peptide is found in proteins related to stress. Gene microarray data for this peptide shows that it upregulates in key areas including proteins that protect cells from stress, growth factors such as fibroblasts, skin lipid development, and components of the extracellular matrix that give the skin substance and elasticity. An in vivo study over 28 days using a cutometer to measure results showed that this peptide helped to firm skin compared to a placebo, and also indicated an influence on the deeper layers of the skin. This is an Ecocert approved ingredient, plant derived, it also has anti-puff action on the skin.
Hippophae rhamnoides (seabuckthorn) fruit extract - The seabuckthorn fruit extract is also a fatty oil with 30 to 40 % palmitic acid (an essential fatty acid), 22 to 35 % palmitoleic acid, and 1 to 7 % unsaponifiable ingredients with high content of sterols, carotenoids, alkanols, and tocopherols. Palmitoleic acid is rarely found in plant oils but, as it is a component of skin lipids, it is especially suitable for skin care. Its properties include wound healing, alleviating sunburn, and increasing cell turnover for faster skin renewal.
Hyaluronic acid- of plant origin, it is added to provided high moisture retention.
Hydrogenated lecithin - Derived from non-GMO soybeans, this is used as a natural emulsifier. Hydrogenation makes it a stable ingredient less prone to rancidity and is not an unhealthy process when ingredients are applied topically.
Hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract – This active ingredient derived from yeast stimulates the cell detoxification process by boosting the formation of autophagosomes, which capture compounds in cells that are degrading or no longer useful. As a result, the levels of oxidized proteins in the skin were reduced by nearly 14% for 82% of volunteers who applied this ingredient twice daily for two weeks. Similarly, the levels of peroxidized lipids were reduced by 23.4% for 71% of volunteers. This extract is also proven to improve the complexion by smoothing surface texture. (All tests were conducted with an emulsion containing this ingredient at 3%).
Hydrolyzed lupine protein - Over time, environmental stress and aging cause the structure of skin to weaken. Collagen production is decreased and the cellular activity of the skin is diminished. Hydrolyzed lupine protein is an active ingredient obtained from organic sweet white lupine that boosts cellular activity, improves barrier function, and protects against skin damage and environmental stress. The protein penetrates down to the basal layers of the epidermis where it reinforces the natural resurfacing systems within the skin. By stimulating cellular activity, it renews the stratum corneum and boots epidermal hydration. Clinical studies demonstrate up to a 13% reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after 14 days of use. The result is smoother more hydrated skin that is repaired and regenerated.
Hydrolyzed oat protein, panthenol, phosphorus, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium pantothenate, magnesium salicylate, zinc gluconate - A combination of key ingredients, proteins, vitamin B5, and minerals which are vital to the health of skin. Hydrolyzed oat protein is utilized for its strong moisturizing and film forming properties. Panthenol, known commonly as Vitamin B5, increases the humectant properties of the skin as well as converts to panothenic acid which plays an important role in cellular metabolism. Essential minerals such as magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc penetrate the skin’s basal layer to replenish devitalized cells.
Hydrolyzed rice protein - A peptide isolated from rice protein, this ingredient stimulates proliferation of skin fibroblasts. Fibroblasts are connective tissue cells that make and secrete collagen, glycoproteins, and other important macromolecules within the matrix of the skin. Stimulation of the fibroblasts improves cell metabolism, improves collagen synthesis, and aids the reduction of wrinkles. As a result of the rice peptide structure, it diffuses easily through the skin, initiates cellular absorption, and enhances skin recovery after damage. The skin is more nurtured, revitalized, and oxygenated with a healthy and fresh glow.
Hydroxyethlcellulose- as cellulose is the structural component of the cell wall of plants, hydroxyethlcellulose is a natural gum made from cellulose used as an emulsifier and thickener in lotions and cremes.
Irish Moss – see Chondrus crispus
Japanese Honeysuckle: A fully active liquid preservative isolated from the herb of Lonicera japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, a clean, energy efficient process. It is used for antimicrobial protection. The extract has been shown to exhibit rapid micro-biocidal activity against gram negative and gram positive bacteria, as well as yeasts and molds. It provides bactericidal activity from such species such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa which is resistant to many synthetic preservatives and causes contamination. The extract does not cause any changes in color or odor to cosmetic preparations and has a high stability in a variety of uses. Fully biodegradable, it produces no pollution hazards, as well. A wonderful alternative to paraben preservative systems. Comprehensive toxicological data shows this preservative to have low toxicity, showing no sensitization, eye irritation, and is a non-irritant to skin. INCI: Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, Lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) flower extract.
Joazeiro – See Zizyphys joazeiro
Jojoba oil – See Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil
Kukui nut oil- native Hawaiians have used the oil for thousands of years to treat dry skin, acne, psoriasis and other problem skin conditions.
Lactobacillus/Punica granatum (pomegranate) fruit ferment extract An enzyme that is extracted from macerated pomegranate with intact chaperone proteins to maximize it efficency. Pomegranates exhibit two to three times more antioxidant capacity than red wine and green tea due to the elevated polyphenol content. Ellagic acid is the primary active polyphenol compound found in pomegranates which bind to carcinogens rendering them inactive. This specific type of pomegranate extract provides excellent exfoliation, removing the outer layer of dead skin cells that trap both bacteria and sebum.
Lauryl glucoside - A nonionic surfactant and is used in a wide range of personal care applications due to its mildness and cleansing performance. It contains no solvents or hydrotropes and is prepared by reacting cornstarch glucose with a C12-C16 natural fatty alcohol. It is readily biodegradable and has no preservatives, nitrosamines or heavy metals.
Lauryl Lactate: is a naturally occurring acid known as a AHA. It is used as an exfoliant and skin conditioning agent.
Lavendula angustifolia (lavender) flower oil
Lavender oil has antibacterial properties [1] that helps to kill acne-inducing bacteria and clogged pores. By unclogging pores and reducing inflammation. Ours is organic and steam distilled.
Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower water – This gentle hydrosol, a byproduct of the distillation of lavender essential oil, is an excellent toner for all skin types. Cooling, hydrating, and balancing, it is especially good for sensitive and oily skins. Its scent relaxes the mind. Ours is organic and steam distilled.
Lecithin - a plant phospholipid derived from soybeans with skin protection qualities. It is a naturally occurring mixture of stearic, palmitic and oleic acid compounds and is used as a natural emulsifier and surfactant. It is high in B vitamin choline and inositol.
Lemon Extract- unknown in ancient Greek and Roman times, European cultivation of the Lemon began at about the thirteenth century near Spain. Its main use for cosmetic purposes is as an astringent and a skin tonic.
Leuconostoc/Radish root ferment filtrate: A natural preservative system derived from Korean Leuconostoc kimchii. The peptide isolated from the kimchii species is an effective anti microbial and protects bacteria and fungus in many cosmetic formulations. In addition to the antimicrobial benefits, it can also address problem skin and scalp conditions.
Leuconostoc/Sorbus aucuparia fruit ferment filtrate - This preservative is one in a series of preservatives that consists of peptides naturally produced by microorganisms for protection; Leuconostoc bacteria are lactic acid bacteria which restrict microbial growth by acidifying their environment. Referred to as a ferment filtrate because the macerated plant material (in this case from the berries of the Sorbus aucuparia or Rowan shrub, sometimes called mountain ash) is fermented with the Leuconostoc culture, this ingredient contains additional active compounds clinically proven to help soften the skin as well as the concentrated anti-microbial peptides and the
Licorice root(Glycyrrhiza Glabra) extract: Helps to brighten and soothe itchy and irritated skin.
Minimizes the production of tyrosinase, the enzyme at the heart of skin pigmentation. Licorice root extract also has in it licochalcone A, which inhibits two inflammatory markers which make it a great anti-inflammatory. Licochalcone A has also been shown to regulate oil production
strong antifungal properties of sorbic acid. All of these are released through the innovative fermentation process used to make this ingredient.
Linden blossom extract- is known to soothe, soften and smooth dry skin. Infusions of Linden are used as a skin tonic. Linden extract is also added to bath preparations to ease sore joints.
Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate: A skin conditioning ingredient. It is a phospholipid complex designed to mimic phospholipids that occur naturally in the body, depositing fatty acids onto skin.
Lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) flower oil: Honeysuckle extract is used in skin care products due to its anti-inflammatory,anti-bacterial properties. The soothing ingredient has long been used to treat skin conditions like eczema and rosacea, as well as acne and general skin irritation.
Rich in flavonoids and saponins, which are sources of antioxidants, it protects the skin against free radicals that cause damage and signs of aging.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: or MAP is a stable vitamin C derivative; as a powerful antioxidant, it has anti-inflammatory effects and prevents sebum oxidation in acne vulgaris. It is metabolized into Vit C after being absorbed into the skin. It helps even skin pigmentation and collagen synthesis.
Maltooligosyl glucoside and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate: A complex derived from carbohydrate syrup by an enzymatic process. It provides moisture retention and acts as an anti irritant for sensitive skin. In addition to these benefits, it also improves dry skin and helps retain skin suppleness. The carbohydrate syrup is made from potato starch, corn starch, and tapioca starch, all non GMO.
Magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate: In addition to vitamins, people need a daily supply of inorganic elements in their diet. A multi mineral cocktail comprised of trace elements known for their actions on the skin. Magnesium encourages protein synthesis and phosphates transfer. Copper encourages ATP, or acts as a catalyst for the synthesis of keratin and collagen, the major structural protein of the epidermis, hair, and nails while acting as a powerful cellular anti free radical agent. Zinc plays a role in the synthesis of DNA as it helps combat aging by stimulating renewal of the collagen matrix. Aspartate also plays a significant role in cellular turnover. Through various biochemical reactions, the aspartate stimulates DNA synthesis resulting in increased cell renewal. With all three minerals working in synergy it restores radiant, better tones, and healthier looking skin. The ideal solution for tired and stressed skin, it supplies the elements necessary for cell vigor and vitality.
Meadowsweet extract (Filipendula ulmaria): lends a delicate aroma. Salicylic acid was first extracted from Meadowsweet, and the salicylate derivatives in this extract give it anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. It also contains flavonoids and tannins that fight free radical activity. In cosmetic preparations, it acts as an astringent and helps to soothe irritated skin.
Medicago sativa (alfalfa) extract - A natural, active compound derived from organic alfalfa, it offers Retinol-like action to stimulate epidermal cell renewal and improve collagen synthesis, preventing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity. This is an ideal ingredient for devitalized skin that is prone to slackening.
Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil: Tea tree oil has healing and nourishing properties. It contains key compounds that reduce the bacteria on skin's surface that contribute to acne production, while not disturbing the skins natural flora.
Methylsilanol mannuronate - an organic derivative of silica that provides long lasting moisturization. It fights free radicals by working to reorganize the membrane lipids, improving the cell membranes' resistance to free radical attack. It also has an anti-glycation action that helps combat the deterioration of the collagen and elastin fibers that effect skin over time. Last but not least, the anti-inflammatory action helps to protect skin by inhibiting cellular infiltration of organisms which cause irritation and triggers inflammatory reactions within the skin. Its soothing effect make it a perfect ingredient for most skin products.
Milk amino acids - throughout history milk has been known for its ability to beautify the skin since Cleopatra bathed in it. Milk amino acids are derived from pure cows’ milk, which is a renewable resource. The fats and carbohydrates are removed and the protein is then hydrolyzed and purified. All proteins (ie curds and whey) found in milk are used, therefore all the essential amino acids are present providing exceptional moisture to skin. It helps protect the skin from environmental damage while keeping the skin soft, smooth and supple. Excessive dehydration causes dry, scaly or cracked skin. The high moisture properties in milk amino acids will help minimize dry skin conditions.
Millet seed extract - see Panicum miliaceu
Montmorillonite clay (aka Coso Green clay)- Montmorillonite type clay is named after an area in France where this “green type” clay was originally discovered and popularized for internal and external use. The clay is sedimentary and it is a green color when wet. The green color is from the iron oxide present in the clay. Coso means “fire” in the Shoshone language. It refers to the volcanic activity in the Coso Mountains, located east of the Sierra Nevada range at the southern end of the Owens Valley. The Coso Clay has been hydrothermally altered by hot water, giving it a negative electrical charge that enhances its drawing effect and healing abilities. The following minerals are found in Coso green clay: silicon 11.95%, alumina 63.74%, iron 17.92%, magnesium 3.16%, calcium 0.77%, sodium 0.0025%, potassium 1.34%, maganese 0.016% and titanium 0.50%.
Montmorillonite clay (Pink clay) is sedimentary clay, formed over millions of years ago by the weathering of the earth’s crust. Minerals are broken down into minute particles and form sediment. An average mineral analysis of Montmorillonite by health experts demonstrate it contains no less than 67 minerals, including vital trace minerals such as silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, and zinc. Montmorillonite type clay is named after the area in Montmorillon, France where it was first discovered and popularized for internal and external use. This clay has been used for centuries to detoxify and cleanse the body as well as promote healing by providing much needed minerals to the skin. The pink clay variety is a mild type of Montmorillonite clay that can be used on normal to dry skin. It gently exfoliates, improves circulation, and has a softening effect which refines the texture of the skin.
Moringa pterygosperma (moringa seed) extract is from the Moringa tree native to India. The crushed seeds are known to have a purifying and cleansing effect and when used in skincare, the extract protects the skin against pollutants and environmental stress.
Mukurossi - In addition to its natural foaming properties, mukurossi has strong anti-microbial activity on the acne factor, Propionibacterium acnes. It also is known to inhibit lipase activity (oil control) and to inhibit melanin production.
Myrtus communis leaf extract: Also commonly known as Myrtle, which is of the plant family Myrtaceae. It is native to the Mediterranean region in Southern Europe, also found in Asia and the Indian subcontinent. It is an evergreen shrub with white flowers and blue-black berries. Antioxidant by nature because of the actives like anthocyanins and flavonoids. It not only saves the skin from any damaging oxidation process but also free radicals.
Nettle Extract- (Urtica dioica) an herb, which contains vitamins A and C, mineral salts including calcium, potassium, silicon, iron, maganese and sulfur. It has been used primarily to relieve eczema and is also used to arrest hemorrhages and promote hair growth. It has a long history of use in folk medicine.
Oat Beta Glucan: Beta-glucan is a fiber-type complex sugar (polysaccharide) derived from the cell wall of oat. It is very effective at activating white blood cells known as macrophages and neutrophils. These cells provide one of the immune system’s first lines of defense against foreign invaders. A beta-glucan-activated macrophage or neutrophil can recognize and remove cellular debris resulting from oxidative damage and speed up recovery of damaged tissue. A super-moisturizer similar in efficacy to hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate as it forms a thin invisible film to help retention of moisture within the skin. It also provides excellent anti-inflammatory properties.
Oat Extract (Avena sativa)- a minimally refined oat lipid extract that is an optimized antioxidant containing a high level of natural, potent antioxidant compounds. It is a stable, natural emollient and source for saturated, unsaturated and free fatty acids. The benefits of antioxidants for the skin are well known. One of the principal antioxidants present in the oat extracts is an ester of ferulic acid. This compound is structurally similar to the synthetic antioxidants BHA and BHT. Additional extract components having significant antioxidant activity are tocols, including tocopherols and tocotrienols. Oat extract contains three molecular species of vitamin E; the alpha-, gamma-, and delta-tocopherols. Five percent of the oat extract is stable to the auto-oxidation process. A typical sample analysis shows a peroxide value of 0.00 mEq/Kg. The peroxide value remains at zero after several months at elevated temperature storage conditions. Further, the addition of oat extract to vegetable triglyceride oils enhances oxidative stability. The predominant fatty acids in oat extract are linoleic (C18:2), oleic (C18:1), and palmitic (C16) fatty acids. Linoleic and oleic acids each comprise 38-42% and palmitic acid 14-17% of the total fatty acid content. Free fatty acids are typically present at 8%. The above unsaturated and saturated fatty acids, as well as free fatty acids, are some of the principal constituents of human skin surface lipids. These materials play a key role in maintaining the normal barrier function in healthy skin.
Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract: An active ingredient from Olive leaves composed of a natural blend of bioflavonoids and polyphenols. The main properties include: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-irritation, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and skin brightening. The olive tree is known for longevity and shows great resistance to insect and bacterial damage, which is most likely due to the Oleuropein, the main biologically active molecule found in the extract. (See separate document for more information.)
Olive oil (Olea europea)- an extra virgin (cold pressed first extraction) of certified organic olives. High quality, food grade.
Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract – The Opuntia streptacantha cactus, also known as prickly pear or nopal, is a succulent native to Mexico. Resistant to strong sunlight and extreme drought, its stems store water and nutrients, enabling growth despite the hot and arid climate. The use of the cactus dates back to the Aztecs of pre-Hispanic Mexico who extracted the sap and mixed it with honey and egg yolk to make an ointment to treat burns. High in essential amino acids, flavones, vitamins, anti-oxidants, and water-binding polysaccharides, it’s a highly effective moisturizing and soothing ingredient for all skin care products. It provides penetrating, long-lasting hydration, calms dry and sensitive skin, and protects from environmental damage.
Orange extract- quite a nutritious fruit containing vitamins A, B and C, its main use in skin care is to brighten dull and oily complexions.
Orange Wax: An all natural semi-solid wax that is produced without the use of solvent extraction or chemical reaction for processing. The natural wax contained in the rind of the orange protects the fruit against the environment, while at the same time, allowing the fruit to breathe and maintain its essential water balance. When applied to the skin or hair, Orange Wax offers similar protection.Orange wax contains carotenoids (anti-oxidants, vitamin precursors and natural pigments), sterols (anti-inflammatory activity), and flavonoids (anti-microbial, and anti-oxidant properties). The wax maintains the same color and fragrance as the fruit and is a beneficial soothing and moisturizing ingredient.
Organic Grain alcohol: used in small amounts as a solvent for the herbal and botanical extracts in a formulation as well as part of the natural preservation system. Helps remove excessive dirt, debris and sebum from skin.
Oryza sativa (rice) extract, Spirulina platensis extract: A complex of algae and rice extracts which are NOP certified organic. The complex delivers perceivable firming properties as well as substantive hydration and moisturizing benefits. The effects leave the skin smooth and supple. The certified organic rice solution is the extraction medium. It is superior to glycerin or other natural extraction media, as it is much more receptive to the transmission of therapeutic constituents from the subject plant material. Additionally, it is a natural humectant providing moisturization benefits to the skin.
Oryza sativa (rice) seed extract, Camellia sinensis (white tea) leaf extract: A complex of white tea and rice extracts which are NOP certified organic. The complex delivers antioxidant benefits to the skin. The certified organic rice solution is the extraction medium. It is superior to glycerin or other natural extraction media, as it is much more receptive to the transmission of therapeutic constituents from the subject plant material. Additionally, it is a natural humectant providing moisturization benefits to the skin.
Palmitic acid: Ours is plant based, and is used as an emollient. It softens the skin.
Pancratium maritimum extract – A rare white lily, also called sea daffodil, is the source for this extract. Native to Crete and the islands off the Brittany coast of France, the flower is raised in greenhouses for a truly sustainable process. This ingredient influences the dendrites that are responsible for the movement of melanin into skin cells, thereby inhibiting hyperpigmentation caused by UV exposure and stress. First, it reduces the creation of receptors that activate melanin transfer from the dendrites. It also reduces the amount of dendrites and shortens their reach. In addition, it inhibits the action of a hormone that signals melanin cells to make melanin. When a cream containing 1.5% of this ingredient was applied twice daily for 84 days, dark spots were reduced by nearly 25% and up to more than 60% in some cases. Reduction in pigmentation is noticeable in 6 weeks.
Panicum miliaceum (millet) seed extract - Oligopeptides from germinated millet seeds work to restore the expression of biological markers damaged by aging. They correct the impact of emotional stress on skin parameters. They also improve skin radiance and illuminate the complexion while visibly reducing wrinkles. State of the art testing shows that stressing young fibroblasts leads to cell responses that are identical to those of certain aged young fibroblasts. Tested at .5% on stressed fibroblasts, our millet seed extract tended to restore the expression of a number of aging markers to levels similar to those of young fibroblasts. It thus prevents cell aging caused by stress. After 42 days of twice daily applications on stressed mature skin, our millet seed extract formulated at 3% reduced wrinkles in the glabella linked to tensions caused by stress. The skin characteristics of 60-year-old stressed volunteers returned to those of an unstressed 45-year old individual. The appearance of their skin was more relaxed, revitalized and more radiant. Signs of fatigue were attenuated.
P-anisic acid: A compound with antiseptic properties used as a preservative in cosmetic products. With skin softening properties, p-Anisic Acid is a compound with antiseptic properties. Sourced naturally in anise, it's used as a preservative in cosmetics to help care for your skin.
PCA and PCA glyceryl oleate – These refatting agents protect the skin’s essential lipid layer at the same time that they emulsify the product.
Pentaclethra macroloba (pracaxi) seed oil - A certified organic oil derived from Pentaclethra macroloba (the Pracaxi fruit) which is found throughout South America, from Northeastern Venezuela to the Amazon. The oil is rich in behenic acid which promotes conditioning of the hair, improves wet comb, and increases softness and shine.
Phenethyl Alcohol - It has a nice rose-like scent and is a natural component of several essential oils such as rose, neroli or geranium. It also has some antimicrobial activity and can boost the performance of traditional preservatives.
Phenoxyethanol - synthetic preservative modeled after plant phenyls. This “globally approved” preservative replaces the use of parabens and formaldehyde.
Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol - A liquid preservative consisting of phenoxyethanol, an aromatic ether alcohol and caprylyl glycol which serves as an emollient base. The combination of these ingredients provides optimized protection against microbial growth from bacteria and yeast while giving the finished product exceptional feel. An effective preservative that is free of parabens, and formaldehyde, which can be used in a variety of cosmetic preparations.
Phospholipids - lipids constitute one of the most interesting and unique classes of natural materials that are available to cosmetic scientists. Phospholipids are substances, which contain fatty acids, glycerol, a nitrogenous base and phosphoric acid. They are found in virtually every type of mammalian and non-mammalian cells and a key component in all cellular membranes. Phospholipids are completely compatible with the natural lipids found in the epidermal layers of the skin. A balance of sterols and phospholipids is important to healthy skin. As skin cells die as a part of the natural process of keratinization, this balance is upset, and if phospholipid-cholesterol balance is not restored, new cells will not regenerate or will regenerate more slowly.
Phytic acid- a component of every plant seed, it is an excellent anti-oxidant and a unique free radical scavenger. It has the ability to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, which causes a color change in the skin.
Pinus pinaster - Derived from a type of pine that grows along the Mediterranean coast, this antioxidant provides a high level of natural defense, shielding the skin from damage caused by everyday environmental oxidative stresses. As it fights this degenerative process it stimulates biosynthesis and regenerative processes of skin tissue.
Plant pseudocollagen - see Yeast extract
Plantain extract - the extract of various plantain species of short stemmed elliptic leafed herbs with spikes of minute greenish flowers. It is used as an antiseptic and astringent in natural products. It has a cooling effect on blemishes, cuts, burns and abrasions, soothes itching, and is said to contain skin healing properties as it encourages cell regeneration.
Polygonum fagopyrum (buckwheat) extract - Known in France as “black wheat” from the color of the seeds, Polygonum fagopyrum or buckwheat is rich in phytosterols, which have a combined action that reduces fat production. Obtained by CO2 extraction, this extract treats fatty deposits under the skin, creating a dramatic reduction in age-related puffiness. After applying a test formulation with this extract at 1% twice daily for 28 days, 80% of test subjects reported noticeable improvement in the eye area, namely a 10% reduction in under-eye bags.
Polyglyceryl-10 myristate: An oil in water emulsifier. It alsonfunctions as a skin-softening, emollient ingredient.
Pomegranate seed extract – See Punica granatum
Populus tremuloides (aspen) bark extract: A natural extract from the Quaking or American aspen tree that is found throughout Northern and Western North America. The extract contains effective preservative properties. Medicinally, the bark has been long used as an analgesic and to reduce fevers. The bark of the Aspen tree is rich in salicylates that may function as the plant’s natural defense mechanism from invading parasites. Testing reveals that aspen bark extract is effective at inhibiting the growth of mold, yeast, E. coli, S aureus, subtilis and P. aeruginosa. In addition to the preservative benefits, the extract also imparts a smooth feel to the skin.
Potassium alum - a colorless mixed salt that forms crystals when potassium sulfate and aluminum sulfate are dissolved together and the solution is cooled. It provides a natural anti-bacterial action, contains no alcohol, does not block pores and is great for sensitive skin.
Potassium sorbate - a food grade yeast and mold inhibitor.
Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil - This expeller-pressed oil, which is rich in gamma linoleic acid (GLA), minerals and vitamins, is considered to be non-comedogenic and beneficial to all skin types, especially mature, sensitive, dry and inflamed.
Pullulan - is a biotechnically-produced extract from the microalga Nannochloropsis oculata that has been combined with a well balanced fraction of polysaccharides. A special fermentation process utilizing photobioreactors ensures the essential nutrients are standardized ensuring a very high content and a consistent quality of active ingredients. During the millions of years of evolution, this form of algae has evolved a myriad of ingredients and protective systems that make it very useful in skincare. The main constituents are polysaccharides, amino acids and vitamins, especially C, and effective antioxidant and B12, responsible for the formation of cells. Pullulan works two ways: first, giving an immediate perceptible sensation of tightening and on a long-term basis, to protect the skin cells from oxidative stress and stimulating the formation of collagen-1. Sagging skin results from oxidative stress. The degradation of the connective tissue is reversed only over time but the consumer is more likely to continue with the treatment if they see an immediate effect. (M4.10)
Punica granatum (pomegranate) seed extract - The pomegranate seed extract is a fatty oil with more than 60% punicic acid, a valuable conjugated linolenic acid (essential fatty acid). produced by super critical carbon dioxide extraction, an extremely clean process, it contains tocopherols, sterols, and a small amount of squalene. Known to calm and heal irritated, dry, and sensitive skin, it promotes the skin’s self-repair system and stimulates regeneration, which in turn reduces wrinkles, improves elasticity, and protects against aging.
Raspberry butter - A paste wax formed by combining beeswax, a natural alcohol (octyldodecanol) and cold pressed raspberry oil. Raspberry oil contains omega 3, omega 6 linoleic acid, as well as naturally occurring antioxidants. The wax enhances emolliency and lubricity on the skin and creates an effective barrier to the skins surface.
Reticulata blanco var. unsh iu (citrus unshiu) peel extract - A Japanese citrus, Citrus unshui, containing a standardized content of hydroxyphenylaminoethanol, shows an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity. When used twice daily, a decrease in enzymatic activity is seen resulting in lighter tone and a reduction in age spots. The extract does not act as a competitive inhibitor but rather as a repressor of catalytic activity expression.
Retinyl palmitate – This form of vitamin A normalizes the skin’s barrier properties. (See one sheet on this product for additional safety information.)
Rosa bourbonia (rose) oil - The Bourbon Rose is believed to have originated in the Isle of Bourbon (now Reunion Islands) towards the end of the 18th century as a natural hybrid of Rosa chinensis and Rosa damascena. The Edward Rose, (common name) which we use for extraction purposes, belongs to the group of Bourbon roses. The Edward Rose is cultivated widely in South India because of the popularity of its dark pink flowers in both religious and social ceremonies. The hardy nature of the attractive flowers lends it for usage in garlands and floral arrangements. The petals are also used for flavoring indigenous dishes and beverages both directly in the dried form and as 'gland's, a conserve made with sugar. The absolute is full, warm, and complex, expanding and rising with a bouquet of individual streams of scent. Its potent perfume conjures a steamy wild and secret garden behind a palace in the South of India.
Rosa canina (rosehip) fruit extract - This reddish-yellow clear oil, produced by supercritical CO2 extraction from the fruits and seeds under the use of natural carbon dioxide has a valuable fatty acid content of 41-59% linoleic acid (C18:2, omega-6), 20-35% alpha-linolenic acid (C18:3, omega-3), 12-22% oleic acid (C18:1, omega-9), small amounts of stearic and palmitic acid, tocopherol and traces of carotenoids. This makes it very useful in treating chapped skin, neurodermatitis, and irritated skin. It is a rich source of bio-active compounds such as flavonoids with high antioxidant capability. The canina species is given the common name, dog rose, due to the belief that its medicinal value extended to curing rabies. Native to Europe (imported to Britain via the Roman Empire), northwest Africa, and western Asia, it now grows wild or is cultivated in many parts of the world. This extract is USDA/NOP certified organic.
Rosa damascena (rose) oil: Bulgarian rose Otto, or Rosa damascena is perhaps one of the most exquisite essential oils throughout history. The finest quality comes from fields of Bulgaria. It takes approximately 800 hours to pick three to four tons of flowers resulting in about one kilo of precious golden oil that crystallizes when cool. Rose is highly prized and used with utter respect for its dollar value and for its therapeutic value. The calming benefits of rose oil have been known for thousands of years.
Rosa damascena (rose) flower water: This hydrosol is produced as a by-product of the steam distillation process used to obtain the essential oil of rose. Its origin is the famous Valley of the Roses in Bulgaria, where the roses are hand-harvested at the perfect time of year. The water has been used as a soothing aid for centuries to protect and preserve many of the most famous faces in history.
Rosa mosqueta (Rosa eglanteria aka Rosa rubiginosa) fruit extract -Rosa Mosqueta oil, a fantastic addition to face and body massages oils and face and body serums. Find it in our new facial massage oil for dry, aged, and/or menopausal skin. It is one of the best vegetable oils for treating skin that exhibits the effects of environmental damage. It is used traditionally to treat scarred, burned, and weathered skin.
From the mountains of Chile, this naturally extracted organic oil is a complete product in itself having proven therapeutic benefits unlike other vegetable oils. It was first thought the positive regeneration properties of the oil were due to the high level of essential fatty acids: over 45% linoleic acid, 33% linolenic, and 14% oleic acid. Although beneficial to skin, there was more significant regeneration activity credited to trans-retinoic acid, a derivative of retinol (vitamin A).
Some of the most remarkable benefits have been found in treatment of photo-aged skin. While treatment with synthetic forms of Vitamin A produce undesirable side effects, the natural “time-release” properties of Rose Hip oil eliminate any risks. It is often suggested for treatment of dermatitis and scarring. It is also useful in hair and scalp treatments.
Rose Hip Seed oil - FAMILY: Rosaceae and the Common Name: Rosa mosqueta, which is not a recognized species.
Habitat & Growth: Rose Hips are the fruiting (seed-holding) bodies of the Rose that develop after the rose has been fertilized, petals drop off, the hip (uterus) enlarges, and forms seeds. The hips are picked when ripe and are very high in vitamin C. The seed is removed and pressed to extract the oil, which is often deep red (when some of the fleshy hip is left) or clear. It often has a strong, almost fishy odor.
Properties, Indications & Uses: It has been found to be a very effective skin treatment. Promotes tissue regeneration. Good for scars, burns, and wrinkles. USES: Can be used as is, or diluted with other vegetable oils and used in blends for skin treatment.
Rose geranium: Geranium de Madagascar, or rose geranium is the bourbon variety native to the Reunion Islands. Our supplier was the first to bring the geranium stalks from Reunion to his certified organic farm in the early nineties. This family owned business plants the geranium on previously cleared rainforest, allowing restoration of the rain forest which helps prevent erosion.
Rose Geranium Hydrosol, Organic California- hydrosols are the result of the plant material, when exposed to steam, releasing volatile therapeutic components into the water. The essential oil is drawn off and the hydrosol is left containing micro molecules of essential oil and constituents from the herbal or floral material. Rose Geranium hydrosol balances oily or dry skin and regenerates the cellular structure.
Rosebud extract- rose is known for its antiseptic properties and for its ability to soothe and soften the skin. It is especially beneficial for mature skin.
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil - This extract, used in products as an antioxidant, is naturally produced by super-critical carbon dioxide extraction. The rosemary diterpenes are carried in organic sunflower oil. This ingredient has a neutral scent and no color. It contributes antioxidant protection for the skin as well as for the product.
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf /flower water – Also known as hydrosols, flower waters are the byproduct of essential oil production. Rosemary hydrosol is a skin revitalizer and its scent restores energy and alertness. It is an excellent refresher when sprayed on the feet.
Saccharum officinarum extract- see sugar cane extract
Saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract, Citrus medica limonum (lemon) extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) fruit extract, Pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract, Camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract: This complex has significant retexturization action on the skin, accompanied by a measurable increase in cell renewal, providing smoother, more glowing skin and a revived complexion. It encourages the skin to shed its surface coating of dead cells, a natural process, and replace the dead cells with new ones at a faster rate. By normalizing the skin’s outer layer, AHAs enable the skin to better hold moisture. Alpha hydroxy acids represent an excellent way to treat dry skin. This particular complex combines various high quality fruit extracts derived from natural sources in a thoroughly tested, complementary blend that includes green teat for its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory effects.
Safflower oil, high-oleic- Prima Fleur Botanicals carries only Non GMO natural oil derived from safflower seeds. This is expeller pressed oil (also known as mechanical pressing) is obtained with no external heat thereby retaining all of the vital nutrients. In skin care, it adds nourishment and suppleness to dry skin.
Salicylic acid: A beta hydroxy acid that helps exfoliate dead skin cells, helps with blackheads and whiteheads and is an anti-inflammatory agent.
Salix nigra (willow) bark extract: The black willow is native to Eastern North America. Following time-honored shamanistic traditions, the extract is made by an aqueous infusion technique from freshly harvested bark collected in the spring. The freshly prepared extract has been reported to have analgeis, antiseptic, astringent, anti-pyretic, and anti-inflammatory properties and is considered a safe, natural source of aspirin-like compounds. This particular extract, obtained from the bark via vacuum distillation, has been shown to enhance skin cell turnover. This is accompanied by a general improvement in the appearance of the skin, as the very mild keratoytic effect, due to the active salicins, smoothes out rough, tired, dry skin. A reduction of the fine lines, wrinkles, and weathered appearance seen with problem skin is observed. Tannins, which are also present, have been shown to have anti-oxidnat effect, which enables them to minimize lipid peroxidation in the cell membranes. Overall, this ingredient contributes a smoothing and restorative effect to dry, chapped skin.
Salvia sclera (clary sage) flower/leaf oil: Has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties. Helps heal rashes and regulates oil production.
Sandalwood Oil - This rare and priceless oil is distilled from the heartwood of the tree Santalum album. The distillers of our oil participate in a National Reforestation project by planting and replacing one sandalwood tree for each tree that is used for the distillation. The deep earthy and woody notes are relaxing and grounding.
Sapindus mukurossi - Also known as soap berry, a natural clarifier, soap berry has been proven to inhibit melanin production, reducing the appearance of age spots and sun damage. The ancient plant contains natural saponins which provide cleansing and detergent properties. Plant-derived saponins also fight infections, boost the immune system, protect against viruses and suppress the growth of bacteria on the skin, due to its strong anti-microbial activity.
Sarcosine: Applied topically, Sarcosine inhibits an enzyme (5 alpha-reductase) responsible for androgen hormone metabolism (converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone or DHT), which in its turn promotes sebum production. Reducing sebum production, N-methyl glycine tightens pores, mattifies and eliminates oily shine, and improves overall skin texture and condition. In addition, Sarcosine can be quickly converted into glycine, an amino acid that can serve as a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) or a building block for collagen production.
Sclerotium gum powder: A natural gelling and thickening agent derived from the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii (a type of mushroom) with a glucose rich base.
Sea algae extract- a purified and re-combined fractionation of Hawaiian seaplants consisting of long-chain polysaccharides with molecular weights of greater than 100,000 dalton. A blend of seaweeds including Eucheuma, Chondrus and Gigartina, it is a genuine moisturizer that is extracted without the use of harsh chemicals. It leaves a silky texture and smoother, younger looking skin. It provides texture and viscosity control and often adds to the stability of products. Tests conducted by Dr. Albert Klingman at the University of Pennsylvania showed it to be non-comedogenic and not a significant irritant for human skin. Tests have shown a significant thickening of the epidermis and stratum corneum suggesting improved barrier function, a greater ability to hold moisture and increased protection against irritant chemicals. This extract is used to hydrate, soften and provide nutrition to the skin.
Seabuckthorn fruit extract - see Hippophae rhamnoides (seabuckthorn) fruit extract
Shea oleate – This “total” extraction of the fatty oil of the shea nut is higher in unsaponifiables (and thus therapeutic substances) than the stearin (wax) fraction by a considerable margin. Usually, the oil is separated from the wax and the oil is used in food. The shea oleate is complete with the wonderful fatty acids that are very beneficial to the skin along with the protective and healing waxes.
Shea butter (see Butyrospermum parkii):
Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil – Pressed from the seed of the jojoba (Simmondsia chinesis) plant, the oil is un-refined, expeller pressed, and cultivated without the use of pesticides. Jojoba seeds contain significant quantities of liquid wax esters that are most similar to the natural esters produced by human sebaceous glands; thereby making the oil an excellent moisturizer. Due to the purity of extraction, all of the natural tocopherols remain in the oil and it provides excellent conditioning to the skin and scalp.
Sodium benzoate – see also Gluconolactone: A generally recognized as safe (GRAS) preservative often used in combination with gluconolactone. It is a paraben-free and formaldehyde-free preservative, and is non-sensitizing and non-irritating. Sodium benzoate and gluconolactone are non GMO and not tested on animals. Sodium benzoate is the sodium salt of benzoic acid and exists in this form when dissolved in water. It is converted to its acid form by lowering the pH, where it becomes antifungal and somewhat anti-bacterial. It is poor against pseudomonads. It can be produced by reacting sodium hydroxide with benzoic acid.
Sodium cocoyl aminoacids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate, magnesium aspartate - Soothing protein of oat amino acids combined with essential minerals of potassium and magnesium, necessary for cell metabolism, provides soothing relief for sensitive skin. Specifically adapted to the needs of sensitive and stressed skin, it helps combat external stress factors such as pollution and harsh environments. Magnesium and potassium are essential in the metabolism of skin cells as well as the repair of damaged skin. Skin cells become stronger and defend themselves more effectively. Attacks to skin, especially those of a chemical nature, cause disturbances in the natural hydrolipid film resulting in dry, cracked, and sensitive skin. This ingredient reconstitutes the layer by adding the main building blocks which are amino acids and minerals thereby creating superior moisture and protection. After a single application to the skin, it has a marked immediate soothing and anti stinging effect which is persistent. This ingredient combats lipooxygenase), which is an enzyme that is stimulated during skin irritation and inflammation.
Sodium cocoyl apple amino acids: Fruit surfactant, derived from apple juice essential amino acids designed to provide gentle yet effective foaming and cleansing properties.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a similar surfactant to sodium lauroyl glutamate, but derived from a different source; coconut oil. Glutamate surfactants are made from fatty acids reacted with glutamic acid, a plant amino acid. A good emulsifier that leaves the skin gentler, cleaner, conditioned and smoother without being too harsh and disrupting the natural biome.
Sodium hyaluronate: Derived from fermentation of a vegetable source, this product mimics the exact structure of hyaluronic acid, a necessary constituent found in body tissues and fluids. One of the most important functions of hyaluronic acid is to retain water in the dermis layer of skin which is vital to skin hydration. As we age, the hyaluronic acid present in our tissues progressively decreases leading to a lack of hydration in the tissues, decrease of turgidity, wrinkling, and lack of elasticity. This natural source of hyaluronic acid, penetrates the epidermis and prevents dehydration of the skin. Large quantities of hyaluronic acid are found in the early stage of wound repair, as it stimulates blood vessel growth and aids in the regeneration and healing of tissue. Its regenerative functions are effective in treating prematurely aged skin, induced by exposure to extreme climates, and stress.
Sodium laurylglucosides hydroxypropyl sulfonate: a gentle surfactant derived from sugar, imparts effective cleansing, substantial foam, while being extremely mild. Studies have indicated lower potential for dermal irritation and eye irritancy than most other surfactants. It is a perfect ingredient in formulas for baby care of sensitive skin products.
Sodium lauroyl glutamate: deemed the “protective” surfactant, sodium lauroyl glutamate reduces, even eliminates the undesirable effect of dehydration so often found in cleansing products. It is delicate and a non irritant to the eyes, making safe for use on young children. Thanks to its complete biodegradability, it is a modern, environment respecting product. It is produced from plant material by completely clean environmentally-sound processes.
Sodium lauroyl oat amino acids- A foaming anionic surfactant derived from oat aminoacids. Unlike other vegetable proteins, it is non odorous making it an excellent choice for many cleansing preparations. This mild surfactant is gentle yet produces a high creamy foam even under severe conditions.
Sodium levulinate and sodium anisate- a blend of plant derived organic acids that provide anti-microbial protection and other benefits. The combination of acids provide excellent anti microbial performance against bacteria and types of fungus. Sodium levulinate derived from corn provides a gentle acidifying effect on the skin. Sodium anisate derived from basil also maintains skin acidity thereby promoting healthy skin pH. The compound of the two acids also imparts anti-inflammatory and hydrating benefits as well as anti-microbial protection.
Sodium PCA: PCA stands for Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, although it doesn’t sound like it, it can be found naturally in our skin. It's a great natural moisturizer that helps our skin hold on to water.
Sorbitol- an organic humectant, skin conditioner, emulsifier and thickener. It provides a smooth, luxurious feel to lotions
Spinach Oleracea The antioxidants and vitamins (specifically A, K and C) present in spinach help to cleanse the skin, unclog pores and fight off the bacteria that flare up acne and pimple outbursts - improving clarity and providing a radiant complexion.
Spirulina platatensis (algae) extract:
Spirulina has moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging and anti-acne properties. It helps sunscreens protect the skin, treats skin pigmentation disorders and helps heal wounds.
Squalane – a vegetable oil produced from the olive Olea europaea. Squalane (the unhydrogenated form) is also found in wheat germ oil, rice bran, and olive oil at quantities of about 0.1% and 0.7%. It is also found in human sebum in quantities around 10%. Becayse if the similarity to the skin’s own natural emollient, squalane has a higher affinity with skin and is natural lipid than most other oils. The outer layer of the skin consists of a complex mixtures of lipophilic and hydrolipidic components. These act as a permeability barrier, protecting against invasion of microorganisms as well as preventing moisture loss. It maintains the skin’s flexibility and suppleness. When applied to the skin, squalane spreads very easily and forms a protective film, which limits dehydration while allowing and even improving respiration of the skin.
Strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis) Fruit Extract: see Date Fruit Extract
Sucrose cocoate is a surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids that is an excellent emulsifier for the skin and hair. Its mildness makes it a great additive in baby care products.
Sucrose polysoyate: a sugar derived ester that provides exceptional emolliency. This emollient enhances skin moisturization, suppleness, and elasticity while producing a positive effect on the skin barrier.
Sugar cane extract- a specific type of alpha-hydroxy acid, called glycolic acid, used in skin care for its keratolytic effect
Sugar maple extract – See Acer saccharum
Superoxide dismutase (SOD liposomes)- a yeast derived, enzyme based liposome that allows phospholipids and vitamins to deeply penetrate lower layers of the skin. SOD eats up a kind of oxygen radical known as a superoxide radical, a combination of oxygen atoms that react destructively with biological tissues. They may help reduce or reverse free radical damage caused by smoking, stress, poor nutrition, and overexposure to the skin or lack of exercise.
Sweet Almond Seed Extract - An active ingredient for use in firming and smoothing skin, this peptide from sweet almond contains protein polymers, large peptides with a high molecular weight (greater than 500,000 Da). These large proteins are perfect for adhering to the skin and forming a stable, pliant, and lifting film. The process of manufacture utilized a combination of enzymatic hydrolysis and cross-linking which may reduce the risk of allergic reactions. This natural polymer is water-soluble and does not leave a synthetic, sticky film. Cross-linking increases the quantity of hydrophobic groups on protein chains, which favors hydrophobic interactions and increases the affinity for skin lipids. Therefore the biopolymerization enables the development of high molecular weight peptides that are soluble in water and yet still have an affinity for lipids and can maintain stability. INCI: water, Prunus amygdalus (sweet almond) seed extract
Symphytum officinale (comfrey) root extract: Also known as Knitbone, comfrey has received much attention in recent years both as a medicinal plant (providing a source of vitamin B12 and the cell proliferant, allantoin) and as a potential source of protein. It has been used for wounds, bruising, ulceration, and dermatological complaints. It is considered a benefit in neuralgia and rheumatism. Occasionally it is used for treatment of varicose veins. The FDA recognizes the constituent allantoin to be healing.
Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E)- performs as an internal moisturizer and acts as a free-radical scavenger to help combat lipid peroxidation. Vitamin E is well known for its antioxidant properties.
Tocopheryl acetate polypeptide- a polypeptide bound form of vitamin E, which plays an essential role in promoting absorption and enhancing substantivity.
Trehalose- A naturally occurring saccharide found in plants, trehalose protects skin fibroblasts from dehydration by protecting the water in cell tissues to retain the natural structure of the skin. Much like sodium hyaluronate, this plant based alternative provides hydration and revitalizes the skin. This ingredient is derived from non-GMO corn starch.
Triticum aestivum extract: Inhibits not only tyrosinase but TRP-1, a protein that forms a complex with active tyrosinase to stabilize and boost its activity. Tests on human subjects showed that Triticum aestivum extract, which is derived from wheat, is more effective than arbutin (86% of participants showed a lightening effect after using a cream with this extract at 4% for 28 days, but only 77% showed lightening with a cream with arbutin at the same concentration over the same time).
Undecylenoyl glycine- A lipo amino acid that is similar to structures naturally present in living organisms. Glycine is a major constitute of dermal structure proteins. In addition to the beneficial skin benefits it also acts against bacteria and fungi.
Vanillosmopsis erythropappa (bisabolol) wood oil - Produced from the Candeia tree found in the Southeast and Midwest regions of Brazil, this oil is used primarily as an anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, and anti-bacterial in sensitive skin preparations. Bisabolol has three times the purity of Chamomile and is the preferred active ingredient for protection against the recurring stresses of the environment on the skin. It is a naturally occurring and versatile ingredient for the natural personal care industry.
Vacinium myritillus extract- see Billberry Extract
Vegetable emulsifying wax- a wax used to emulsify the oil and water. Natural vegetable waxes add protective moisture-binding properties to the crème, preventing transepidermal water loss.
Vegetable glycerin- aids in hydration, a sweet syrupy hygroscopic trihydroxy alcohol obtained by the saponification of fats from vegetable source lipids. It is used as a humectant and as a medium for extraction of herbs.
Vitamins A, C & E- are added to the product to preserve the vegetable oils and waxes and protect them from oxidation and resulting rancidity. They are derived from natural vegetable sources.
Water and Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide - Extracted from the seeds of the ayurvedic plant also known as Indian senna, it is similar to hyaluronic acid and provides exceptional film forming and moisturizing properties. The extract improves water retention and absorption of the skin thus boosting the skin’s defense system. The extract has regenerative properties and repairs dry, dull and sensitive skin.
Water, Phoenix dactylifera (date) extract, Punica granatum (pomegranate) extract, Fragaria chiloensis (strawberry) fruit extract – see also Date Fruit Extract: UVA and UVB from sunlight cause damage to cell walls, DNA, and important enzymes and proteins. Protein damage to cells leads to loss of enzymatic activity. Damage to DNA creates premature aging and susceptibility to skin cancer. In order to provide proper protection, an antioxidant must be able to penetrate the damaged areas to protect against oxidation within the nucleus of the cell. The extract of date is full of tannins, and has been shown to protect proteins from oxidation as well as scavenge superoxide more effectively than pure vitamin C, and E. Pomegranate fruit contains anthocyanins and ellagitannis and demonstrates three times more antioxidant activity than green tea and red wine! Anthocyanins, present in strawberry extract, inhibit oxidation in cell walls and are a strong free radical scavenger. The powerful combination of extracts provides superior broad spectrum antioxidant protection.
Water & billberry extract & sugar cane extract & sugar maple extract & orange extract & lemon extract- AHA complex- Alpha hydroxy acids represent an excellent way to treat dry skin. They work by speeding up cell turnover and the rate of renewal of the skin’s surface. This particular complex is mixed fruit extract derived from natural sources which contain a thoroughly tested complementary blend of AHA’s; glycolic (for it’s keratolytic effect), latic (for it’s moisturizing and skin smoothing properties) and citric acids (to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis).
Water and glycerin and Crithmum maritimum extract- Also known as rock samphire, it is a native plant found along the Mediterranean coastline. The extract stimulates the release of ß endorphins by skin cells while sensory neurons encourage the relation and well being of the skin. In addition to these benefits, the extract provides anti-inflammatory, cooling, and soothing relief to stressed skin. Clinical studies demonstrate a marked increase in the inhibition of prostaglandin production, a pro inflammatory response that causes redness, irritation, and edema. The natural aromatic extract awakens the sensations of relaxation and wellbeing as well as provie therapuetic anti-inflammatory relief.
Water, glycerin, hesperidin methyl chalcone, steareth-20, dipeptide 2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide 3 - Helps prevent puffiness and reduce bags under the eyes due to the combination of three active molecules. Hesperidin methyl chalcone decreases capillary permeability. Dispeptide 2, both improves lymphatic circulation, firmness, and elasticity and decreases inflammatory response.
Water and glycerin and Vigna aconitifolia seed extract and sodium citrate - A botanical alternative to retinol, the extract of Vigna aconifiolia has proven effects similar to Vitamin A without the irritation and instability of retinol. The complex is more stable comparable in its mode of action. It stimulates epidermal cellular renewal and collagen synthesis and offers a complete anti-aging solution. It visibly refines skin texture, allowing a resurfacing and refined complexion that leaves the skin youthfully radiant.
Water and Palmaria palmata extract- A fractionated extract of Palmaria palmata which is a red algae that contains brightening properties. The extract inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and reduces the quantity of melanin synthesized which is responsible for skin pigmentation. The extract has been clinically tested to produce significant lightening of sunspots, brown spots, and uneven skin tone. It promotes a complete anti-pigmenting activity that gives the skin a luminous and ultra refined complexion.
Water and polysorbate 60 and sorbitan stearate and Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil and Anogeissus leiocarpus bark extract and citric acid: A new and exciting anti- aging ingredient that is the first of its kind to fight the signs of aging through targeting the body’s ability to absorb Vitamin C. The Angogeissus leiocarbus, or African birch bark has been demonstrated to activate the body’s mechanisms that incorporate Vitamin C into the fibroblasts of the skin thus restoring and maintaining collagen synthesis. This extract proves to be quite unique both in its method of action as well as it contribution to sustainable development. The extract is cultivated and processed in a small village near Bobo Dooulasso (in the Ivory Coast). The harvesting of the extract is organized with the local villagers and the National Department of Forestry in the region. The villagers have shared their traditional knowledge of the tree and extract and have a vested economic share in the production. Regular plantings take place around the harvesting place with approximately 800 young trees already planted and a botanical garden for scientific and teaching purposes. The bark is harvested without any alteration of the tree and the amount of bark is limited per tree to limit the risk of damage. The extraordinary new ingredient provides a new phase in the fight against aging as well as addressing the social and economic issues that are involved in keeping a biodiverse environment
Water & potassium thiocyanate & lactoferrin & lactoperoxidase & glucose oxidase- a complex of enzymes derived from sugar and whey used to treat skin imperfection. They have a remarkable effect on the skin helping to regulate sebum production and support the skin’s natural immune system.
Water and sodium PCA and Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) gel and panthenol and glycerine and sodium hyaluronate - A conditioning blend specifically designed to optimize the ability to attract and retain moisture on the skin. Sodium PCA is found in the skin and acts as a moisturizer. Being highly hygroscopic, it is able to bring environmental moisture to the skin and retain it. Sodium hyaluronate is another main component in the skin. It is responsible for maintaining cell structure as well as absorbing water. The biologically active moisturizer panthenol complements these physical moisturizing properties. Panthenol stimulates cellular proliferation and promotes normal keratinization. Aloe vera gel is composed of amino acids, lipids, sterols, enzymes, saponins, and a wide array of polysaccharides. The healing activity of aloe vera is linked to these components and their ability to hydrate, insulate, stimulate and protect the skin. Lectins isolated from aloe vera gel were found to stimulate cellular activity and perhaps are the main active involved in the acceleration of wound healing.
Willowbark extract (see Salix nigra)
Willow Herb extract: This extract is from the aerial parts (parts above the ground) of a rare Alpine plant grown by an organic cooperative in the Swiss Valais. It has beautiful pink to purple flowers, which are also a source of the extract. With strong anti-inflammatory properties from gallic and ellagic phenolic acids, and free-radical-scavenging antioxidants from flavonoids of quercitrin, myricitrin, isomyricitrin, hyperoside and more, it both soothes and disinfects the skin. This amazing herb goes on to be a strong 5-alpha reductase inhibitor with oenothein A and B (5-alpha reductase is what typically causes over-production of sebum). It is an enzyme found in the sebaceous glands of our skin, especially oily skin.
Hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) leaf water – Witch hazel is a traditionally used topical preparation that can be obtained from both the bark and the leaves of the plant commonly called winterbloom. This distillate of the leaves is anti-inflammatory, reduces irritation, and has antiseptic activity on impure skin.
Xanthan- a natural polysaccharide of high molecular weight that when dispersed in water is a natural thickener.
Xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol: A naturally-derived ingredient from the sugars found in wheat and wood cellulose. It has been shown to dramatically improve the epidermal water content by increasing the skin’s dermal water reservoirs (GAGs: glycosaminoglycans). Stimulation of GAGs synthesis (hyaluronic acid and chondroitine sulphate) on fibroblasts is significant. Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) is decreased as well. It also shows improvement of the barrier function increasing ceramide synthesis. The effects are shown to be immediate and long-term.
Yeast Extract (plant pseudocollagen) (beta glucan)- a cellular extract of a moisturizing complex of sugars and proteins with excellent moisture binding properties. This complex is responsible for providing turgor and shape inside the cell in a similar way to sugar-protein complexes in the dermis. It is extracted from Saccharomyces cerevisiae using a special controlled process. It represents the soluble fragments of the cellular cytoplasm responsible for the structural integrity of the cell. The process is carefully controlled to amplify the cosmetic moisture binding properties by maintaining the integrity of the glycosidic linkages. These sugar-protein links are missing from all refined cosmetic animal derived collagens. The role played by soluble collagen in the skin is well documented. Collagen fibrils provide the rigid dermal framework around which the moisture binding proteoglycan structure is woven. Elastin fibrils supply the whole structure with its elasticity. The appearance of the skin is directly proportional to its ability to bind water. Studies have shown that on aging, the collagen and elastin contents reduce with a concomitant decrease in ability to retain moisture. The skin becomes thinner, takes on an aged appearance and often develops wrinkles. Yeast extract is a true moisturizing glycoprotein extracted from living yeast.
Zinc Acetylmethionate- a biocatalyst acting on enzymatic reactions at the dermic level. Zinc is essential for cell multiplication and for DNA and RNA synthesis. It modulates the activity of several membrane enzymes such as triphosphatase adenosine and A2 phospholipase by inhibiting them, thus improving the integrity of the cell membrane structure. Zinc seems to have a protective effect against free radicals, it activates the superoxide dismutase. It interferes in the process in immunological defenses through activation of the key enzyme for the immunity system, the adenosine-desaminase (ADA). Its regulating action on sebum production results in an anti-inflammatory action as sebum in contact with micro-organisms increases production of free fatty acids causing inflammation. In addition, hyperseborrhoca is narrowly related to the local sensibility of the dihydrotestosterone derived from testosterone with the 5-alpha reductase. It reduces the activity of the 5-alpha reductase and the bacterial production of lipases.
Zinc gluconate – see Magnesium Aspartate
Zinc oxide- an active ingredient skin protectant, which is a drug that protects exposed skin from harm. It protects the skin from harmful UV rays and has the greatest UV absorption of all commercial pigments. It is a sunscreen, astringent and antiseptic.
Zizyphus joazeiro bark extract - A genus from the Rhamnaceae family, which consists of about 100 different species that grow in topical regions, Juazeiro is typical of the Brazilian Caatinga, the arid zones of country’s northeastern corner, where a number of plants are harvested for use. The extracts of the joazeiro bark from the trunk and branches are used for different medicinal applications but are most widely used as a cleanser. The bark contains a large amount of natural foaming saponins that are responsible for the formation of lather with a high cleansing power. Bark preparations are traditionally used for shampoos, soaps, lotions, and anti-dandruff and tooth cleaning products. The joazeiro is a slow-growing tree that lives up to 100 years. It can reach up to 10 meters high, branching from its base with a trunk covered in gray bark with straight thorns.